CUT, Singapore

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cut_steak

1 ✻ Michelin Guide Singapore 2016

visited Sept 16

Where does a meateater go if he fancies a steak in Singapore? CUT, naturally. Offering a choice selection of steaks and an inventive cocktail menu to accompany, CUT represents the pinnacle of lavish steakhouse spending. Including some wine and a round of drinks after the meal, our bill for four soared decisively into 4-figure territory.

The meal started off with bread and butter, and I was pleased to see an ample selection of bread. The sourdough and foccacia found their way onto my plate, and although it was not as hot as I would have liked it, the foccacia was nonetheless a great way to open up the meal. Topped with savoury onions, it led the way in what would be a high-sodium, no-regrets, carnivorous extravaganza.

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I opted for the bone marrow flan for my appetiser, which was a real indulgence – savoury, infinitely smooth flan served with a deeply earthy mushroom marmalade and a parsley salad. Great texture with the flan – custard-y and rich and buttery. Served alongside toasted white bread. Delicious.

The mains in question were a cut of Australian wagyu ribeye – an off-menu item which the waitress recommended to share for two. Not on quite the same level as Japanese wagyu but great value here, classic wagyu flavour profile and texture. Formidable crust on the steak, and that’s thanks to a powerful grill in the kitchen. Admirable consistency on the meat, great marbling and succulent and juicy. With a menu that boasts $200+ steaks, CUT does indeed pull all the stops to ensure an immaculately-done steak. The meat alone should cut it, but if you’re curious do opt for a sauce. Eating the whole steak without a sauce may get rather mundane after a while. I had the yuzu-infused butter which was a great accompaniment to the wagyu; light citrus notes cutting through the rich fat and the creamy butter never for one moment overwhelming the beef.  Those craving for carbs can pick one from the many sides. Having had the mac and cheese, it certainly does’t disappoint, although i’d save space for dessert and drinks.

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Desserts arrived, an opulent Peach and Cream with ravishing composition. At that moment when doubts about CUT’s plating were beginning to emerge, this dessert cut through (sorry) all of those doubts and proved undeniably CUT’s thorough deserving of it’s Michelin rating. Peach sorbet with peach sugar shards and greek honey yoghurt panna cotta were the focus of the dish, with fluffy pieces of aerated honey-infused cake and almonds completing the plush display.

CUT was running at a full house when I visited for dinner, and although it was difficult to get service at times, the overall standard of the front of house was very professional indeed. With an extensive wine selection (we had an excellent barolo but there’s plenty of Salon and DRC to celebrate your latest derivatives deal with – just don’t put it under client expense), dark hardwood floors in the main dining room and plenty of candlelight reflecting off countless swirling decanters, CUT undeniably sets the benchmark for anyone seeking out a night of low-lit steakhouse decadence. Dinner ended with selections from an extensive list of well-crafted cocktails. I had a Sexual Healing – although I suspect any healing on my part had largely to do with a reestablishment of my faith in the guide at a time when it has come under fire for dubious inclusions.

cuisine: 20/25 | aesthetic: 11/15 | technicality: 11/15 | originality: 11/15 | ambience: 14/15 | service: 9/10 | value: 2/5

aggregate score: 78

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